What makes that ‘real’ beef which attracts customers to come back for more? According to award winning traditional west country butcher, Gerald David his weekly kill must comprise cattle that provide consistency of genetics, feed and management, they must have full traceability and they must be hung for a minimum two weeks.

Those criteria have enabled Gerald and his sons, Alastair, Philip and Simon to build their family business during the last three decades. Current turnover amounts to 25 mainly Charolais cross cattle plus 400 lambs and 100 pigs per week through their five retail outlets straddling Devon and Somerset and a thriving mail order company.

"We source only from local Exmoor farms who can demonstrate the highest of standards and ensure a second to none quality product all year round," he says. "We’ve developed a close working relationship with all our suppliers of beef, lamb and pigmeat and we believe in maintaining mutual respect for each other."

Bruce Dascombe is one of the key suppliers of beef to Gerald David. Bruce farms in partnership with his wife, Rosemary and their sons, David and Mark 1,445 acres at based Timberscombe on the edge of Exmoor near Minehead, and for more than 15 years he has supplied finished cattle each week to Gerald David.

"We have the strongest farmer butcher relationship you’ll find," says Gerald. "The Dascombes are professionals; they’re consistently delivering a volume of cattle to my exact requirements and they’re located only five miles from our slaughterhouse at Porlock so animal stress during transportation is minimal. Each year we renegotiate a flat rate payment, plus a premium for their entire throughput of finished cattle."

As far as the Dascombes are concerned, Bruce says they value the arrangement and believe it’s one that could be forged by other farmers with their local butcher. "We’re working in a guaranteed market place and price structure, and the Davids come and select the finished cattle themselves. Transport costs are minimal and we also appreciate the fact we know exactly what happens to our cattle once they’ve left the farm gate."

The family runs a 350 cow suckler herd, all of which is put to the Charolais to calve in spring. Charolais cross steers are taken through to finishing at 22 months and 580kg to 600kg liveweight, while Charolais cross heifers are finishing within 14 months and 550kg liveweight. A further 400 stores are bought in for finishing, mainly Charolais cross heifers through Weddon Cross market where Gerald David can frequently be found at the ringside with Bruce Dascombe.

"I like to identify beasts for the Dascombes to rear which I know will finish to our precise requirements, and I prefer Charolais cross heifers," says Gerald. "Charolais crosses have become the number one selling animal in the store ring because they’ve got that scale and stretchy growth, better conformation which means a higher volume of quality cuts, in particular loin and a bit of cover."

The Dascombes are among a minority of beef finishers in the region. "Most suckled calves are sold off Exmoor farms for finishing outside the area," Bruce explains. "Apart from taking sheep on winter tack, this is a dedicated beef unit – we prefer to stick at what we know best and pay that attention to detail."

When it comes to consistency of genetics, Bruce says he has chosen to use Charolais as the herd’s terminal sire for as long as he can remember. "Charolais has the ability to leave those fast maturing calves that finish quicker than any other Continental cross," he says. "When we’re selecting a new Charolais bull, we select on conformation, in particular hind quarters and we also go for one within the breed’s top 25% on both Beef and Calving Values."

The feeding regime at Timberscombe is based on a simple least cost system. Home bred spring born calves are introduced to restricted barley and protein supplement from September to prevent a check and prior to weaning on winter housing. Heifers are finished indoors in the final six months on the same total mix ration comprising grass and maize silages, barley, a 40% protein blend and minerals.

The Retailer: Gerald David with a Charolais cross joint